Sunday, July 22, 2012

Walking Like Joyce, Talking Like Yeats

A collage of my literary journey in Ireland.
"Tread softly, because you tread on my dreams," is the first Yeats quote I ever read, on a plaque outside his seaside cottage in Howth. Since that first gulp of words, I've bought a volume of his poetry (selected by Seamus Heaney) and have been slowly taking sips of his work whenever I'm parched for beautiful language and imagery. His words ring true for me, and when I discovered that there was a Yeats exhibition at the National Library, I was overjoyed. I saw his personal copy of Walden, his last pair of glasses, personal letters in his own glorious handwriting, scripts for Abbey plays, and even a lock of his hair. Perhaps the most interesting artifact I found, however, wasn't even in the exhibit. At a small bookshop in Athlone, I struck up a conversation with the shop owner and when he recognized my interest in Irish playwrites, he lifted a black binder from the top shelf behind the register. It was filled to the brim with photos, letters, and other snippets collected from auctions that formed a shrine to Yeats, Beckett, Joyce, and Sheridan.

What stuck out most was a small piece of yellowing paper with the words, "Only the wasteful virtues earn the sun," dated April 24, 1916. According to the bookshop owner, this was Yeats' first reaction to the Easter Rising. He told me a story that shed light on the meaning behind the poet's curious word choice. When Yeats was younger, a young man from his home town jumped overboard a ship to save a woman's hat that had caught in the wind and drifted in the water. In his heroic attempt to salvage a mere hat, the man drowned. Yeats' mother thought that the man wasted his whole life because he was trying to be virtuous. Yeats, who had mixed feelings about the Rising, considered the event a "wasteful virtue" since so many men wasted their talents to rot in jail or be executed. However, he also adds that such a folly can "earn the sun," which shows that maybe he sympathized with the Nationalist cause afterall. He mourned the loss of life and opportunity of the men who organized the uprising, but he also recognized that a greater purpose existed. When great men like Yeats reflect on monumental events in history, it compells one to examine their own beliefs. His reactionary sentence, just seven words long, is so full of complexity and brings up so many questions. Yeats' quote provides a direct pathway to the mindset during the time of the rebellion, and helps to open a window to the past.

Wednesday, July 18, 2012

On Meeting Enda Kenny



I attended my first party of diplomats on the past 4th of July at US Ambassador Rooney’s estate in Phoenix Park. I was in my glory, amidst cultural comforts of hot dogs, American flags, football, and the hundreds of important people who had gathered to celebrate the birthplace of my home country. After three hours of volunteering at a temporary tattoo booth, where I placed stars and stripes all over the arms, hands, and faces of youngsters, I was ready to meet the ambassador. Confident, I set off on a mission to shake his hand. I found a foreign officer with a headset and when he heard my goal, brought me to a lineup of elderly women dressed in big sunhats and men in expensive-looking suits. I shook his hand and told him I was from New Jersey, he smiled, said, “Very good,” and moved down the queue of handshakes. A little defeated by the lack of grandeur, I shuffled off to the side of the square, and watched the crowd for a while.
Suddenly, a shot of excitement seemed to go through the mass of people in one particular corner, near the tent with the open bar. Cameras, shouts, and a quick storming of people pervaded the area, and I asked someone next to me what was happening. “It’s the Taoiseach!” they exclaimed. I felt silly, not having registered that the head of the Irish government might make an appearance at the lavish affair. I was still a little deflated from my simple handshake with Ambassador Rooney, so I hurried over to the nucleus of the commotion and became next in line to greet the Taoiseach.
I stuck out my hand, smiled, and gave a hearty introduction of my name, nationality, and reason for coming to Ireland. A tall man with a sharp nose and even sharper suit firmly shook my hand and pulled me in for a polite (though somewhat intrusive) embrace as several photographs were taken. He, like the Ambassador, asked what state I was from, and upon learning the answer, asked, “How’s my man down in Jersey?” I was confused for a moment until he clarified, “The Boss.”  I was awestruck that the Irish Taoiseach was a Bruce Springsteen fan, something I associate with American pride, red bandanas in blue jeans, and my own upbringing. He said he was looking forward to Bruce’s concert, and again, I was shocked by how normal he seemed. It seems so human and blue-collar to go to a Bruce Springsteen concert, and not at all a glamorous evening out for the political elite. After our minute-long bonding session over New Jersey’s hero, he moved onto the next handshake, the next introduction, the next conversation.
I was dazed, to say the least. For an American, meeting a political figure is a big deal, let alone meeting the President. I have a few friends who met President Obama and my father met Senator McCain the first time he ran for presidency, but I myself have only met lowly legislative assistants on a lobbying trip when I was 16. Meeting the head of the Irish government is something I’ll always remember because it’s so unlikely that I’ll ever have the same experience in America. The beauty of Irish politics is how localized and intimate it is, because common people can get involved easily and without travelling very far. This, to me, is a major difference between the Irish and American political systems. In the US, there are parties, news channels, and witty t-shirts that get voters involved. Here, in Ireland, there are actual people and personal connections that put a living, breathing character into political figures. Aside from interviews and a revealing New York Times article I once read, I will probably never learn about Obama’s taste in music, and definitely not from a primary source. After two weeks of living in Dublin, I had an actual conversation about a music artist with Enda Kenny. In America, we like to think that our government is “of the people, by the people, for the people,” but I would say that Ireland clearly has us beat when it comes to using people to build relationships between political figures and the public.


Sunday, July 15, 2012

€1,000,000,000 House: Turning Destruction into Art



          The death of the Celtic Tiger has left unfinished housing developments all over the country and the only beauty that has come out of the more than 2,000 ghost estates is the graffiti that covers the cement foundations. This was true up until Frank Buckly decided to make a monument to the financial crisis by literally shredding money. I wandered into the museum last week and found that the walls, floors, and furniture were actually made out of a dust of shredded euros. The walls are composed of bricks, each worth €50,000, and the makeshift carpet is made of money as well. Everywhere you look, there's shredded money, acting as a testament to the wasteful and I stood on the porch looking at the artwork on the walls (also made of money) when a gruff looking Irishman walked in from across the street and introduced himself as Frank, the artist. 
          I asked him where he got so much money from, and he smiled and said it was a secret and he couldn't tell me. After doing some research, I learned that he collected two trailers full of notes worth 1.4 billion, given on loan from the mint. The house is made of 1,000 6"x 2" bricks, which provides excellent insulation during the winter. 
          Frank was inspired, upset, and furious when his good friend committed suicide after the bubble burst and lost his house and wife during the financial crisis. He thought to himself, "This is just paper." He felt that their needs to be an open debate on what currency means. Frank currently lives in the "One Billion Euro House"and uses it as a venue to sell his artwork. I'm inspired by his audacity to show the world how little money is worth, and his effort to turn a miserable crisis into a piece of artwork. His project is proof that beauty can be born out of destruction.

Saturday, July 14, 2012

The Skelligs and Inis Oirr

triumphant and full of a mixture of fear and glee, climbing to a sacred summit
After being pushed around by the sea for an hour, I was elated to stand on dry land. I climbed 600 slippery steps up the side of a cliff to reach the 6th Century monastic site at the summit, which was well worth the precarious journey. The early Christian architecture of stone, igloo-esque huts was beautiful and full of history. Honking puffins cheered us on as we made the descent back to the dock as they roosted in the green cliffsides. Skellig Michael is definitely the most remote, isolated place I've ever visited. It was exhilerating to climb a slippery flight of ancient stone stairs that winded up the side of the cliff and even more of a rush to slowly make my way back down. Luckily, I made it back to the boat safe and sound, which is more than I can for three unlucky tourists in years past.


This wasn't the first time I've taken an hour long boat ride to a new, uncharted island. Last weekend, I journeyed to Inis Oirr, the smallest of the Aran Islands off the west coast of Ireland. I toured the beautiful limestone-clustered hills of the island by bike, stopping frequently to take in the breathtaking scenery. I felt as if I was biking through a Van Gogh painting. The natural rock formations, greenery, and old stone walls were the perfect backdrop for an adventure. The tiny island was mine for the taking, as very few tourists were there, having opted to visit the largest of the three islands. I took in the glory of nature and animals, blue horizons, and the fresh air. I spent nearly the entire day outside, but I did venture indoors to buy a pair of blue wool socks made in connemara and to enjoy a hearty bowl of soup with brown soda bread and a half pint of Guinness.


Both island trips - to the Skelligs and to Inis Oirr - were empowering journeys into the less-travelled nooks and crannies of Ireland. I've been to the paths less-travelled, giving me a new sense of place and direction. Wandering feels good, and sometimes, you need to get lost in order to find yourself.


drinking from a well with magical healing powers


the green and blue foam of the crystal sea


gazing out to Galway Bay


stone, sea, and sky

Sunday, July 1, 2012

Bray-eautiful

Hopping on a 6 train along the east coast of Dublin and Wicklow Counties, wandering into a seaside resort town, climbing on the jetty, and hiking a 700 foot mountain made for the perfect Sunday. While stepping over brooks and tree roots up a steep ascent, I found myself constantly pausing to take in the breathtaking scenery. Similar to Howth, every step I took created a new field of view and a different perspective of the sweeping Wicklow mountains and nestling towns. The panoramic view from the summit of Bray Head was the most beautiful thing I've seen so far in Ireland. A cross was erected there in the 1950s, where hundreds of locals gather every year on Good Friday. To see the simple cross of wood up close after seeing a miniscule cross from the bottom of the mountain was surreal. It loomed over me, as if to say that even though I just climbed a mountain, there is still always something to look up to.


view from the top
playing on the jetty
taking in the scenery
beach of stones and pebbles
even at the top, you can never be the tallest